Stonesetting with Brad Simon

Pave Setting Diamonds

When bead or pave setting dust the mounting and stones with cornstarch.  This will eliminate the glare, providing a better view of the metal beads and stones.  You can make a dusting bag by placing cornstarch in the center of a cloth handkerchief; use enough powder to form a ball about the size of a golf ball.  Secure the loose ends with a rubber band; which will serve as a handle.  Tapping the ball of powder once or twice against the mounting will provide sufficient powder on the mounting.

For articles on Stonesetting go to: http://AboutStoneSetting.com
Bench Tips and Tricks for Bench Jewelers, Stone Setters, and Goldsmiths

Bench Jewelers Setting Melee in a Fishtail Style

Setting diamonds in platinum jewelry is a true mark of craftsmanship for Bench Jewelers. This unique diamond setting style provides an elegant wedding ring set.

Bench Magazine is written BY Bench Jewelers FOR Bench Jewelers.

Cutting Azures

Check out this article on Cutting Azures

http://aboutstonesetting.com/articles/azures.html

Cutting Azures

Setting on Curved Surface

When pave or channel setting on an outside curved surface, space the stones further apart.  When setting down in the metal they will come closer together.

~ Brad

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Pave Setting Diamonds

When Pave Setting, place a thin coat of wax over the metal to layout the diamonds.  Then place the stones table down on the metal.  The wax will keep them from falling off and you can try several arrangements of the stones to find a pattern that works best.

~ Brad

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Tip for Bead or Pave Setting

When bead or pave setting dust the mounting and stones with cornstarch.  This will eliminate the glare, providing a better view of the metal beads and stones.  You can make a “dusting bag” by placing cornstarch in the center of a cloth handkerchief; use enough powder to form a ball about the size of a golf ball.  Secure the loose ends with a rubber band; which will serve as a handle.  Tapping the ball of powder once or twice against the mounting will provide sufficient powder on the mounting.

~ Brad

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Bead Set Colored Stones

Use an annealed beading tool when bead setting colored stones.  You will have to reshape the tip often, however the softer tool will not abrade the stone as easily.

~ Brad

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Stone Setting Tools - Dusting Bag

When bead or pave setting dust the mounting and stones with cornstarch.  This will eliminate the glare, providing a better view of the metal beads and stones.  You can make a “dusting bag” by placing cornstarch in the center of a cloth handkerchief; use enough powder to form a ball about the size of a golf ball.  Secure the loose ends with a rubber band; which will serve as a handle.  Tapping the ball of powder once or twice against the mounting will provide sufficient powder on the mounting.

- Brad

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Stone Setting Cleaning Stones

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Azures - A Jour

After drilling the holes, turn the jewelry over and clean up the back of the plate.  If the plate is thin, all you can do is scrape away any burs and polish with a bristle brush.  If the plate is thick enough, you need to cut away some of the metal surrounding the holes.  These cuts are called azures.  Azure is the American English derivative of the French term a jour or adjoure.

The easiest method to cut an azure is to taper the hole using a bud or cone bur.  Then polish the taper with a hard felt point in your flex-shaft.

On finer jewelry, you will want to cut a square or triangle shaped azure.  The results look like bright cutting on the backside of the jewelry.  To begin, cut a tapered hole with a bud bur.  Then, using a hart bur held sideways cut your corners in each hole.  Next, use a small wheel bur to clean away the metal between the corners.  Then use a polished flat graver to clean up and polish your cuts.

Brad

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