Unknown Jeweler

Prong Setting

After cutting a seat for a stone, clean the burs off the prongs before placing the stone into the crown.  Use a graver to cut the burs away, or scrape them off with your tweezers.  Then, polish the inside of the crown before continuing the setting process.

It's the little "extra" that makes the ordinary into extraordinary.

~Unknown Jeweler

Stonesetting,Gemstone Setting,Bench Jeweler

Stonesetting

When pave or channel setting, place a strip of double stick tape in your stone tray.  Then stones can be laid out on the tape in the same order as in the mounting.  The tape will keep them in order even if the tray is bumped.

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Stonesetting,Diamond Setting,Bench Jeweler

Colored Stone Setting

Sometimes it is difficult to see where the stone’s pavilion is hitting the inside of the crown.  To help in determining where the stone touches the crown, dust the inside of the crown with powder.  Then, carefully place the stone in the crown and press down gently.  Carefully lift the stone from the crown and examine the pavilion.  Powder will remain on the stone at the points of contact with the crown, allowing you to know where extra metal needs to be removed before setting the stone.

  ~Unknown Jeweler

Gemstone Setting,Bench Tips,Stonesetting

Channel Setting

When channel setting it is best to intentionally cut the seat too small.  Then, gradually enlarge the seat to fit the stone.  This will help keep you from over cutting too large a seat.

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Stonesetting,Gemstone Setting,Bench Jeweler

Ring Holder

Take a warm ball of Jett Sett and squeeze the lower third in a ring clamp.  Then, allow to cool.  To use re-heat the top of the ball to secure the item of jewelry and re-clamp the ball in your ring clamp.

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Stonesetting,Ring Holder,Jewelers Tools

Prong Setting

On heavy prongs, use a small ball bur to carve a hollow area on the inside of the prong.  This will make it easier to bend the prong over fragile stones.

- Unknown Jeweler

Stonesetting,setting Stones in Prongs,Jewelry Making

Burnisher

Gravers make excellent burnishers.  A flat graver works wonders on burnishing the edges of bezels and channels.  Place the graver in the same manner you would trim the edge of the bezel or channel.  Then pull backwards on the graver to burnish rather than pushing forward to cut. 

In addition, tips of polished gravers of various shapes can be inserted into slits, cut outs, crevices, or any other tight spots and rubbed back and forth to burnish the metal.

- Unknown Jeweler

Jewelers Tools,Stonesetting,Burnisher

Ring Holder

Take a warm ball of Jett Sett (the plastic substitute for shellac) and place in a 2” X 3” plastic bag.  Spread it out to fill the bag approximately one sixteenth inch thick, then fold the bag in half to 2” X 1 1/2 “.  When hardened trim off the top of the bag.  Then, when you have a ring shank or other jewelry that is too thin to hold tightly, place the jewelry between the two halves of the bag and insert in your ring clamp.

- Unknown Jeweler

Jewelers Tools,Stonesetting,Jewelry Making

Pearl Post

When fabricating a piece of jewelry for pearls, used an old screw post earring post for the pearl stud.  The threads will serve as notches to help hold the epoxy and pearl.

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Jewelry Making,Pearl Setting,Bench Tips

Stone Setting

While cutting a seat, use light even pressure.  Excessive pressure to vigorously cut metal will over heat the burs.  This heat will remove the temper from the tool and it will no longer be able to keep a sharp cutting edge.  Let the tool do the work.  Do Not Use Excessive Speed Or Pressure To Force A Dull Bur.

- Unknown Jeweler

Stonesetting,Cutting Seats,Jewelry Making,Jewelers Tools