Unknown Jeweler

Solder

Always match the solder to the color and karat of the metal you are soldering.  Do not use low karat “repair” solder or solders of lower karat then the metal as the solder may tarnish, causing the jewelry to look dark around the solder joint.  This is particularly important when attaching crowns to rings.  If low karat solder is used the ring may turn un-slightly dark around the base of the crown.  The only remedy to this problem is to remove the crown and clean away the old solder.  Then solder a new crown to the ring using the correct solder and reset the stone.

  ~Unknown Jeweler

Soldering Jewelry,Jewelry Making,Bench Jeweler

Solder Tweezers

Cut a perpendicular notch across the tip of a pair of self-locking soldering tweezers.  This will then easily grasp and hold wire, jump rings, earring post, etc. when soldering.

- Unknown Jeweler

Jewelers Tools,Soldering Tweezers,Jewelry Making

Adjustable Ring Shanks

Over time the hinge on an adjustable shank becomes loose, the holes begin to wear oval allowing "play" in the hinge.  An easy method to alleviate this is to re-drill the hole with a slightly larger drill bit then re-rivet the hinge with a larger hinge pin.

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Jewelry Repair,Ring Sizing,Bench Tips

Protecting Engraving

Paint whiteout over engraving on the inside of rings before sizing or soldering wedding sets together.  This will keep the solder from flowing over the engraving.

- Unknown Jeweler

Jewelry Repair,Ring Sizing,Bench Tips

Ring Sizing

Grind a knife-edge on the end of an equaling needle file.  Then, it will be easier to insert into the seam of a joint to true it up before soldering.  This works particularly well on truing up the ends of a shank when sizing.

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Ring Sizing,Jewelry Repair,Jewelers Tools

Jewelry Making: Pearl Cross Pendant

Step 9

After polishing and cleaning, the finished cross can be presented to the customer.

Jewelry Making,Soldering,Jewelry Fabrication

Jewelry Making: Pearl Cross Pendant

Step 8

Now the pearl is set, and all the prongs and gold strips are being cleaned with various abrasive wheels, Care should be taken not to damage the pearl during this step.

Jewelry Making,Soldering,Jewelry Fabrication

Jewelry Making: Pearl Cross Pendant

Step 7

The bale is installed and soldered.

Jewelry Making,Soldering,Jewelry Fabrication

Jewelry Making: Pearl Cross Pendant

Step 6

These pieces vary in shape and are soldered all around the outer edge.

Jewelry Making,Soldering,Jewelry Fabrication

Jewelry Making: Pearl Cross Pendant

Step 5

Gold wires and strips are soldered on the silver frame to serve as prongs for the cross shaped pearl.

Jewelry Making,Soldering,Jewelry Fabrication