Tools
May 17, 2008
May 15, 2008
Using Burs
A tool commonly used in stonesetting to cut a seat for the gemstone or diamond is a bur.
Use light even pressure when you are using burs. Excessive pressure to vigorously cut metal will overheat the burs. This heat will remove the temper from the tool and it will no longer be able to keep a sharp cutting edge. Let the tool do the work. DO NOT USE EXCESSIVE SPEED OR PRESSURE TO FORCE A DULL BUR.
Brad
May 13, 2008
Gravers
When shaping gravers on a grinding wheel hold the graver in contact with the grinding wheel for only a second or two. Then, lift the graver slightly. The airflow from the spinning grinding wheel will help keep the graver cool. Do this a few times then dip in water and repeat the process.
Brad
May 08, 2008
Clean Hands
Before setting colored stones wash your hands, and clean off your bench top, bench pin, and lap tray. Metal filings and abrasive particles on your bench and hands can scratch soft stones during setting.
Brad
April 03, 2008
Watch Out Below!
Before beginning to set any stone, remove all tools from your lap tray. Even a diamond can be chipped it if hits a hard steel tool when dropped.
Brad
March 04, 2008
Rough Them Up
Do not use highly polished tools to push prongs over stones. They will have a tendency to slip off the prong, and possibly damage the stone.
Grind a groove in the face of your prong pusher and the jaw of your pliers you use for stone setting, which will lessen your chances of slipping.
Brad
February 26, 2008
Pumice Wheels
Test your pumice wheels and other abrasive wheels on a piece of glass. If they do not abrade the glass, they will not scratch most faceted colored stones, and would be safe to use cleaning up the prongs. Glass is around 5 ½ on the Mohs scale, which is softer than most faceted colored stones. Although these wheels will not scratch harder gemstones, you still must use caution as the wheel may chip the facet lines of fragile stones.
Brad
February 18, 2008
Using Burs
Grind a bevel on the end of the shank on all your burs. Then they will be easier to insert into your flex-shaft handpiece when using.
When using burs, you should insert the shank all the way into the handpiece. The chuck should hold the shank as close to the bur head as possible. This will provide more accurate control and it is safer to operate this way.
Always use a steady speed and even pressure. Varying the speed by pumping the foot pedal or un-even pressure while cutting will cause un-even cutting and wear out the flex-shaft prematurely.
Brad
February 11, 2008
Stonesetting: Bezel Setting Tip
Bezel Setting Tip
When trimming the edge of a bezel use a flat graver. Make certain the cutting edge of the graver is perpendicular to the stone. If the cutting edge is held at an angle less than 90 degrees it will have a tendency to cut in toward the stone possibly chipping or abrading it. By keeping the cutting edge of the graver at a 90 degree angle will allow it to glide smoothly around the bezel.
A flat graver can also be used to burnish the bezel. Place the graver point on the bezel as you would if cutting. However, pull backwards on the graver to burnish the metal, rather than pushing forward on it.
Brad
February 06, 2008
Stonesetting: Tool Tips
Tool Tips
While using burs you should use a steady, slow to medium speed. Flex-shafts can operate at speeds up to 14,000 rpm, some even faster. Burs and drills should not approach this speed while cutting metal (carbide and diamond tipped burs and drills are the exception to this). You should operate the flex-shaft at no more than medium speed while using steel burs and drills, and the larger the bur the slower the speed. High speed steel burs are a description of the type of steel used and not indicative of the speed used to operate.
Brad
