A tool commonly used in stonesetting to cut a seat for the gemstone or diamond is a bur.
Use light even pressure when you are using burs. Excessive pressure to vigorously cut metal will overheat the burs. This heat will remove the temper from the tool and it will no longer be able to keep a sharp cutting edge. Let the tool do the work. DO NOT USE EXCESSIVE SPEED OR PRESSURE TO FORCE A DULL BUR.
Brad
Before setting colored stones wash your hands, and clean off your bench top, bench pin, and lap tray. Metal filings and abrasive particles on your bench and hands can scratch soft stones during setting.
Brad
When setting colored stones, use a head or crown that is slightly larger than the head you would set the same size diamond. This larger size is needed to accommodate the larger pavilion on color stones.
Brad
When setting colored stones with an uneven pavilion in clusters or as side stones, set the thicker portion to the outside of the mounting where it will receive more abuse. If the stone is set with the thinner edge to the outside, it maybe chipped while wearing.
Brad
Do not use highly polished tools to push prongs over stones. They will have a tendency to slip off the prong, and possibly damage the stone.
Grind a groove in the face of your prong pusher and the jaw of your pliers you use for stone setting, which will lessen your chances of slipping.
Brad
To make certain prongs are down tight on the crown of the stone, hold the mounting at eye level and turn so that you are looking at the prong from the side view. Then, hold your index finger about 1” above the stone. This will shield direct light from the stone, causing a silhouette of the stone and prong. Then, you can easily see light coming through any gaps between the stone and prong. If you cannot see any light between the crown of the stone and the prong, your prongs are down tight, and no further tightening is necessary. Taping a 3 X 5 white index card on the wall in front of your bench helps as it provides a light background to hold the stone in front of.
Brad
They’re marvelous, miniscule and sometimes malicious – they’re melee stones, and they’re everywhere. In this seminar you’ll learn Skills, Techniques, and Tips designed to take the frustrations out of handling and setting these little gems. You’ll also discover how to improve the quality of your work and reduce the time required to complete a melee job. This seminar will cover many setting techniques, including prong, bead & bright, channel, pave and flush.
This seminar sponsored by Jewelers of America, is part of the program at the Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo, April 24 – 27, 2008 in Los Angeles. For details on all the seminars offered, more conference & expo information, and to register go to: www.BenchConference.com.
Brad
Setting stones in prongs is one of the most common methods of stone setting. In this seminar you’ll learn this fundamental setting procedure from a Master Setter. Setting round stones in center crowns and side prongs will be the focus of this demonstration, and will also demonstrate shared-prong settings and dealing with colored stones and large belly-bottom stones.
This seminar is part of the program at the Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo, April 24 – 27, 2008 in Los Angeles. For details on all the seminars offered, more conference & expo information, and to register go to: www.BenchConference.com.
