Stonesetting with Brad Simon

Prong Setting

When prong-setting stones, partially bend one prong over the stone.  Then, bend the prong directly opposite it, not adjacent to it.  Continue working down the prongs a little at a time on opposite prongs until the prongs are all down tight on the stone.  This procedure will help keep the stone level while setting.

Bench Television
How to training videos for Bench Jewelers
See some of the most respected Master Jewelers explain their techniques and tips
on stonesetting, making and repairing jewelry.

Check your Prongs when Setting Diamonds

ALWAYS check the stone with a loupe or microscope before you begin to push the prongs over the stone.  Then check AGAIN once the prongs are part way down and the stone no longer rocks.  The small amount of extra time taken to check the seats can save a lot of heartbreak latter.

  ~Brad

For all your Jewelry Findings go to: Southeastern Findings

Prong Setting Diamonds

After cutting a seat for a stone, clean the burs off the prongs before placing the stone into the crown.  Use a graver to cut the burs away, or scrape them off with your tweezers.  Then, polish the inside of the crown before continuing the setting process.

It's the little "extra" that makes the ordinary into extraordinary.

  ~Brad

Bench Television
How to training videos for Bench Jewelers
See some of the most respected Master Jewelers explain their techniques and tips
on stonesetting, as well as making and repairing jewelry.

Prong Setting Diamonds

To make certain prongs are down tight on the crown of the stone, hold the mounting at eye level and turn so that you are looking at the prong from the side view.  Then, hold your index finger about 1 inch above the stone.  This will shield direct light from the stone, causing a silhouette of the stone and prong.  Then, you can easily see light coming through any gaps between the stone and prong.  If you cannot see any light between the crown of the stone and the prong, your prongs are down tight, and no further tightening is necessary.  Taping a 3 X 5 white index card on the wall in front of your bench helps as it provides a light background to hold the stone in front of.

  ~Brad

Bench Television
How to training videos for Bench Jewelers
See some of the most respected Master Jewelers explain their techniques and tips
on stonesetting, making and repairing jewelry.

Filing Prongs

When filing prongs to shape them, always file in a direction toward the mounted stone.  Filing away from the stone could push the prong loose.

  ~Brad

For articles on Stonesetting go to: http://AboutStoneSetting.com
Bench Tips and Tricks for Bench Jewelers, Stone Setters, and Goldsmiths

Closed Bottom Crowns

Always cut a hole in the inside bottom of a closed bottom crown.  This hole can be cut with a drill bit or a round bur; moreover, this will allow clearance for the culet of the stone.  If this clearance is not provided, the stone may chip during setting, or while wearing if the customer knocks the stone.

  ~Brad

For articles on Stonesetting go to: http://AboutStoneSetting.com
Bench Tips and Tricks for Bench Jewelers, Stone Setters, and Goldsmiths

Prong Setting

When prong-setting stones, partially bend one prong over the stone.  Then, bend the prong directly opposite it, not adjacent to it.  Continue working down the prongs a little at a time on opposite prongs until the prongs are all down tight on the stone.  This procedure will help keep the stone level while setting.
  ~Brad

To Learn More About Stonesetting
Attend the Bench Jewelers Conference
April 23 - 25  ~  St. Louis, MO

For complete list of Seminars go to: http://benchconference.com/seminars.html

Polish Your Work

Always polish inside the head before you set the stone.  This doesn’t take much time and it is one of those little extras that makes ordinary work – extraordinary!

 

  ~Brad

Setting Gemstones in Heavy prongs

Use an 8/0 sawblade to make a relief cut in prongs.  Then, they will be easier to push over fragile stones.  Make the cut on the inside of the prong at the top edge of the girdle of the stone.

 

  ~Brad

Setting Pear Shaped Stones

When setting pear shaped stones, first bend the point prong or V-Tip.  Then place the stone into the crown, and push the remaining prongs over the stone to secure it.

Setting the stone in this manner limits the amount of pressure applied to the fragile tip of the stone.

  ~Brad

V-Tip Prongs,Diamond Setting,Bench Jeweler