When Flush Setting diamonds or other gemstones into jewelry, the table of the stone should be even with the surface of the surrounding metal. This is where the term ‘Flush Set’ comes from; as the stone is flush with the metal.
After drilling the holes, turn the jewelry over and clean up the back of the plate. If the plate is thin, all you can do is scrape away any burs and polish with a bristle brush. If the plate is thick enough, you need to cut away some of the metal surrounding the holes. These cuts are called azures. Azure is the American English derivative of the French term a jour or adjoure.
The easiest method to cut an azure is to taper the hole using a bud or cone bur. Then polish the taper with a hard felt point in your flex-shaft.
On finer jewelry, you will want to cut a square or triangle shaped azure. The results look like bright cutting on the backside of the jewelry. To begin, cut a tapered hole with a bud bur. Then, using a hart bur held sideways cut your corners in each hole. Next, use a small wheel bur to clean away the metal between the corners. Then use a polished flat graver to clean up and polish your cuts.
They’re marvelous, miniscule and sometimes malicious – they’re melee stones, and they’re everywhere. In this seminar you’ll learn Skills, Techniques, and Tips designed to take the frustrations out of handling and setting these little gems. You’ll also discover how to improve the quality of your work and reduce the time required to complete a melee job. This seminar will cover many setting techniques, including prong, bead & bright, channel, pave and flush.
This seminar sponsored by Jewelers of America, is part of the program at the Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo, April 24 – 27, 2008 in Los Angeles. For details on all the seminars offered, more conference & expo information, and to register go to: www.BenchConference.com.
Learn safe and efficient techniques to set stones without fear of damaging them. This seminar will demonstrate advanced instruction in Flush Setting, Bezel Setting and V-Prongs on Fancy-Shaped Stones. In addition, common problems with fragile stones will be discussed. You’ll learn techniques that dramatically improve your skills while avoiding many of the pitfalls common to fancy-shaped stones.
This seminar is part of the program at the Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo, April 24 – 27, 2008 in Los Angeles. For details on all the seminars offered, more conference & expo information, and to register go to: www.BenchConference.com.