Before bead setting stones, properly
measure the thickness of your metal. At a minimum, the metal should be as thick as the distance between the girdle and the culet.
If the metal is too thin, you will not have enough metal to get a good bead.
If the metal is particularly thin, use a setting bur that is slightly dull. Then, rather than cutting the metal away cleanly, it will push some of the metal down. This metal will bulge down below the plate supporting the stone.
Brad

When channel setting, file the tops of the channel wall at a 30-degree angle. Then, hammer the channel wall at this angle and the metal will form down and out over the stones.
Brad
Let’s face it – setting a round diamond is boring, but a two-carat princess cut might cause your blood to flow a bit faster. How would you go about bezel setting a near flawless emerald or a ten carat black opal? Stones like those will certainly get a bench jeweler’s attention. This seminar can help you learn the secrets of setting unusually shaped, rare and fragile gemstones. This seminar discusses advanced setting techniques including setting Marquise and Pear Shaped stones, Princess Cuts, Bezel Setting and Odd Shaped Colored Stones.
This seminar sponsored by Jewelers of America, is part of the program at the Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo, April 24 – 27, 2008 in Los Angeles. For details on all the seminars offered, more conference & expo information, and to register go to: www.BenchConference.com.
Brad