When setting stones with large pavilions, test fit the stone table down.
When the stone fits in the seat table down, you can be certain the seat is cut properly to accommodate the girdle of the stone.
Then, all remaining cutting on the prongs needs to be done below the girdle to accommodate the pavilion.
This is particularly beneficial when setting colored stones in bezels as it is hard to see inside the bezel where the stone is hitting.
Brad
Learn safe and efficient techniques to set stones without fear of damaging them. This seminar will demonstrate advanced instruction in Flush Setting, Bezel Setting and V-Prongs on Fancy-Shaped Stones. In addition, common problems with fragile stones will be discussed. You’ll learn techniques that dramatically improve your skills while avoiding many of the pitfalls common to fancy-shaped stones.
This seminar is part of the program at the Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo, April 24 – 27, 2008 in Los Angeles. For details on all the seminars offered, more conference & expo information, and to register go to: www.BenchConference.com.
Brad
When trimming the edge of a bezel use a flat graver. Make certain the cutting edge of the graver is perpendicular to the stone. If the cutting edge is held at an angle less than 90 degrees it will have a tendency to cut in toward the stone possibly chipping or abrading it. By keeping the cutting edge of the graver at a 90 degree angle will allow it to glide smoothly around the bezel.
A flat graver can also be used to burnish the bezel. Place the graver point on the bezel as you would if cutting. However, pull backwards on the graver to burnish the metal, rather than pushing forward on it.
Brad
