Stonesetting with Brad Simon

Bezel Setting Tool

Take an old setting bur and grind the point off.  Grind it down
just past the edge that cuts the corner for the girdle of the
stone.  What you have left is a wheel bur with teeth on the edges
only.  (In essence a wheel bur with a safety edge.)  With this
you can trim the inside edge of a bezel setting to remove the
wavy edge left from pushing it over the diamond.  Cut carefully
as to not remove very much metal.  This will leave a smooth even
edge that can be polished easily with a graver.

 ~Brad

For all your Jewelry Findings go to: Southeastern Findings

Tube Setting Diamonds

To set stones in small bezels or tubes place the mounting into your #30 handpiece.  Then, hold a burnisher against the bezel as you turn it slowly.  The bezel will form over the stone smoothly and evenly all the way around the stone.

 

  ~Brad

Bezel Setting Stones with Points

When Bezel or Flush Setting stones with pointed ends, such as marquise, princess, and baguettes, move the metal from the side of the stone toward the point. If you work from the corner to the center of the side, you will be moving metal away from the corner and will not have enough metal to properly cover the point of the stone.

  ~Brad

Stonesetting,Princess Cuts,Bench Jeweler

Bezel Setting a Small Diamond

To set a small diamond in a bezel, place the stone in the seat then place a punch with a tapered hole cut into the end, over the bezel.  Hammer down on the punch to secure the bezel over the diamond.

~ Brad

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AboutStoneSetting.com

Check out these free articles on stonesetting.

http://aboutstonesetting.com/articles/settingapearshapeemerald.html

http://aboutstonesetting.com/articles/cuttingazures.html

http://aboutstonesetting.com/articles/royalflush.html

www.AboutStoneSetting.com

Stone Setting Cleaning Stones

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Fit Like a Glove

When setting stones with large pavilions, test fit the stone table down. 

When the stone fits in the seat table down, you can be certain the seat is cut properly to accommodate the girdle of the stone. 

Then, all remaining cutting on the prongs needs to be done below the girdle to accommodate the pavilion.

This is particularly beneficial when setting colored stones in bezels as it is hard to see inside the bezel where the stone is hitting.

Brad

Stonesetting: Advanced Setting

Advanced Setting

Joel McFadden

Friday April 25th & Saturday April 26th

Learn safe and efficient techniques to set stones without fear of damaging them.  This seminar will demonstrate advanced instruction in Flush Setting, Bezel Setting and V-Prongs on Fancy-Shaped Stones.  In addition, common problems with fragile stones will be discussed.  You’ll learn techniques that dramatically improve your skills while avoiding many of the pitfalls common to fancy-shaped stones. 

This seminar is part of the program at the Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo, April 24 – 27, 2008 in Los Angeles.  For details on all the seminars offered, more conference & expo information, and to register go to: www.BenchConference.com.

Brad

Stonesetting: Bezel Setting Tip

Bezel Setting Tip

When trimming the edge of a bezel use a flat graver.  Make certain the cutting edge of the graver is perpendicular to the stone.  If the cutting edge is held at an angle less than 90 degrees it will have a tendency to cut in toward the stone possibly chipping or abrading it.  By keeping the cutting edge of the graver at a 90 degree angle will allow it to glide smoothly around the bezel.

A flat graver can also be used to burnish the bezel.  Place the graver point on the bezel as you would if cutting.  However, pull backwards on the graver to burnish the metal, rather than pushing forward on it.

Brad