When Flush Setting diamonds or other gemstones into jewelry, the table of the stone should be even with the surface of the surrounding metal. This is where the term ‘Flush Set’ comes from; as the stone is flush with the metal.
After cutting a seat for a stone, clean the burs off the prongs before placing the stone into the crown. Use a graver to cut the burs away, or scrape them off with your tweezers. Then, polish the inside of the crown before continuing the setting process.
It's the little "extra" that makes the ordinary into extraordinary.
This seminar is a duel between two Master Jewelers Jurgen Maerz and Brad Simon. Dividing the front of the room, two benches sit across from each other where each jeweler works, demonstrating their techniques to Advanced Setting Projects. One will demonstrate a setting project, and when finished, the other shows his method. Close-up video projection equipment projects the work of each craftsman onto a large screen so everyone in the room can easily see the techniques demonstrated. You’ll learn intricate setting from two perspectives, ranging between Pave, Channel, Flush, Princess, and Marquise. Plus learn tip to working on Invisible Set Jewelry.
When setting a stone in prongs, ALWAYS check the stone with a loupe or microscope before you begin to push the prongs over the gemstone or diamond. Then check AGAIN once the prongs are part way down and the stone no longer rocks. The small amount of extra time taken to check the seats can save a lot of heartbreak latter.
All cutting tools must be kept sharp. Dull cutting edges are dangerous to use as they have a tendency to slip off the metal rather than bite into it. Burs that slip can cut or pierce your fingers. Dull cutting edges take longer to perform the work resulting in lower productivity. They cause excessive heat buildup that could damage some jewelry or the tools themselves. Dull cutting edges produce poorer quality work. They leave more burs on the metal rather than cutting cleanly. In addition, they do not always cut true, resulting in off centered holes, and un-even or un-true cutting.
A tool commonly used in stonesetting to cut a seat for the gemstone or diamond is a bur.
Use light even pressure when you are using burs. Excessive pressure to vigorously cut metal will overheat the burs. This heat will remove the temper from the tool and it will no longer be able to keep a sharp cutting edge. Let the tool do the work. DO NOT USE EXCESSIVE SPEED OR PRESSURE TO FORCE A DULL BUR.
When shaping gravers on a grinding wheel hold the graver in contact with the grinding wheel for only a second or two. Then, lift the graver slightly. The airflow from the spinning grinding wheel will help keep the graver cool. Do this a few times then dip in water and repeat the process.