Platinum Guru

Setting Stone in Platinum Bezel

When setting a stone into a platinum bezel, make a bright cut at a 45º angle along the bezel’s inside edge, after the seat has been made.  This way, as the bezel’s edge is rolled over for hammering around the stone, the shine will extend all the way to the girdle.  You’ll then be ready for the final bright cut of the bezel without the need to cut too close to the girdle and possibly damage the stone.

-Jurgen

Making Platinum Jewelry,Setting Gemstones,Bench Jewelers

Pave Setting in Platinum Jewelry

When you have a pave’, bead, or bright setting job, drill small pilot holes that can then be enlarged.  This will take more time, but it’s worth it as it provides a margin for error.  For example, if you have a honeycomb layout with 144 holes positioned side by side, you could drill every hole the exact size you need-but any drift in the drilling process will ruin the entire layout.  By using a smaller drill, you can correct any drift as you enlarge each hole.

-Jurgen

Making Platinum Jewelry,Setting Gemstones,Bench Jewelers

Stonesetting

Platinum has the distinction of being called a “dead” metal, which means it has very little or no memory.  When a platinum prong is pushed into place, it usually stays there without sag or spring.  However, platinum also tends to fill up the grooves of drills and burrs, so some care must be taken when you begin setting stones.  Use only sharp, well-lubricated drills.  When using a burr, make sure it is either new or well cleaned.  Also, use well-polished gravers for pave’, bead, and bright settings.  I recommend tungsten carbide gravers, since they hold their polish better and retain a sharpened edge.

-Jurgen

 

Making Platinum Jewelry,Setting Gemstones,Bench Jewelers

Making a Forged Platinum Ring - Part 8

Step 22 - Creating the Seat for the Stone

Using a stone setting bur, cut the seat for the diamond.

I prefer a stone setting bur the exact stone size or slightly smaller.  You can use the bur as a gauge, if you mark the approximate depth you want to cut on the bur with a permanent marker.  As the burr turns, the mark will become a line.  All you need to do is cut to that line and you have reached the perfect depth.

Step 23 - Setting the Stone

Push the bezel around the stone using a bezel pusher or stone setting punch.  I usually tighten the stone by pushing at opposing sides in four places.

Then I push the metal toward the stone all the way around.  I prefer to use a setting punch for this portion.  Even blows on top of the setting punch with my chasing hammer create an even rim around the stone.

You may also use a reciprocating hammer for this step.

Step 24 - Removing Setting Marks from the Bezel

Using a silicon wheel, remove any marks left on the bezel by the setting process.  Sometimes you may need to use a small needle file before the wheel to even out any irregularities.

 

 

Step 25 - Bright-Cutting the Bezel

Using a #41 flat bottom graver with a highly polished bottom, finish the ring by cutting a bright cut around the bezel.

On larger stones, I actually cut the bright rim before I set the stone.  Then, after setting I cut around the bezel again, but because of the earlier cut, I will not need to cut near the stone. This keeps the graver from bouncing and gives the setting a better finish.

 

Step 26 - A very Attractive Ring         

After a final polish, followed by cleaning in the ultrasonic and steaming, we have the finished ring.

The customer certainly enjoys the ring.  I hope you have enjoyed and learned from this project.

Jurgen