Platinum Guru

Fabricating a Platinum Ring - Part 6

Step 19

Using the Pt950 hard solder, the cross bar is soldered in position

Step 20

By soldering one side at the time, adjustments can be made as needed.

Step 21

This photo shows the assembled ring ready for further work

Step 22

Depicts another view of the ring.

 

Jurgen

 

Platinum Ring,Jewelry Fabrication

 

 

Fabricating a Platinum Ring - Part 5

Step 15

Using the pre-bend narrower Platinum strip, the approximate size of the crossbar is being marked.

Step 16

The cross bar is being pre-polished

Step 17

Using the coarse sand paper, the outside of the ring is finished

Step 18

This photo depicts the finished shank, ready to receive the cross bar

 

Jurgen

Platinum Ring,Jewelry Fabrication

 

Fabricating a Platinum Ring - Part 4

Step 09

The use of a permanent marker is recommended to blacken the sides of the shank.

Step 10

Using a divider, the shank is marked for comfort fit of the shank.

Step 11

A coarse file brings the contours in place very fast.

Step 12

Using an abrasive wheel the comfort fit is achieved.

Step 13

As can be seen by this photo, the shank has a smooth side, which will be very comfortable when the ring is being worn.

Step 14

The shank is filed on the inside to blend in with the comfort and remove any scratches from the bending or other manufacturing process.

Jurgen

Fabricating a Platinum Ring - Part 3

Step 04

Using a divider, it is easy to find the center of the ring and make sure that each side is the same length.

Step 05

Excess platinum is cut away.  These pieces are laid aside and will make the center head for the diamond

Step 06

It is important to be sure the shank is level and thus a slight hammering with a chasing hammer will do that.  Be sure to do both sides.

Step 07

Using a file, both sides of the shank are filed flat.

Step 08

Using a coarse sandpaper, both sides of the shank are made to be true.  The paper used is 150 grit Tri-mite

Jurgen

Welding Google Lens Plate

The biggest difference for the bench jeweler working with platinum is soldering.  Because of the high temperatures, welding goggles MUST be worn to protect your eyes.  However, because they are so dark it makes seeing and finding items difficult while soldering.

As an alternative, I devised a clip to attach a welding goggle lens plate to my torch body.  The clip is made from a heavy paper clip.  It holds the lens plate above the torch tip, right where needed when soldering or fusing.  Then while working, I can easily see around my bench, and my eyes have adequate protection where needed.

Many jewelers accomplish this by placing a lens plate in a third hand.  They can then position it where needed.  This works fine, but I like my clip better as it moves with my torch and is in the correct position every time I solder.

Brad

Fabricating a Platinum Ring - Part 2

Step 01

Begin by stamping the Pt stock with the quality mark and the makers mark.  This is important if the ring is sold across state lines.

 

Step 02

Using a ring mandrel, the shank is bent to the desired shape.  The marker line is at the actual size, so that the bend needs to be done only once.  This ring will have a square type shape and is not round.

 

Step 03

Here the approximate shape is shown.

Fabricating a Platinum Ring - Part 1

This series of photos shows the Step by Step process of making this beautiful platinum ring.  The entire ring is handmade from Pt950/Ru.

 

Materials needed:

Pt950/Ru strip, 2x6x60mm

Pt950 Ru strip, 2x4x15mm

Pt950 round wire, 1x10mm

Pt950 plump hard solder

Pt925 med plump solder

18-0.02ct round diamonds

1-1ct center diamond

 

Jurgen

Making a Forged Platinum Ring - Part 7

Step 18 - Placing 1500 Solder on the Ring

Next “tin” the edge of the ring with 1500 platinum solder.  This will make it possible to attach the tube to the ring without spilling solder onto the tube.  As the tube is highly polished, we want to do a very clean job.

 

 

Step 19 - Soldering the Tube in Place

Clamp the tube in place using tweezers with tungsten tips.  Do not use steel tweezers as they will contaminate the platinum.  Heat until the previously applied solder flows through the seam.

 

 

Step 20 - Cutting off Excess Tubing

Using a jeweler’s saw, trim the bezel to an attractive proportion in relationship to the ring. 

If you are a precise worker, you may cut the tube to the exact size before attaching.  However, I find it to be easier to trim it now after it is soldered.

 

Step 21 - Polishing the Seam

After removal of excess tubing on the inside of the ring, polish the area using a felt wheel and platinum polishing compound.  Also polish along the seam, bringing the ring to a show-room finish at this time.

We're almost finished, next time we'll set the stone.

Jurgen

Making a Forged Platinum Ring - Part 6

Step 14 - Making the Tube for the Bezel

Using needle nose pliers, we create the little tubing which will create the bezel for the stone.  We bend the platinum stock so that the inside diameter is just barely smaller than the stones girdle outline.  You can calculate the required stock you need by multiplying the stone’s diameter plus metal thickness, times 3.14.

Step 15 - Checking the Size of the Tube before Soldering

Before you cut the bezel tubing, be sure the stone will fit when it is done.  You can get a pretty good feel by looking at is as we did in the picture.  Now use a jeweler’s saw and cut away the excess metal.

Step 16 - Cut through the Seam before Soldering

It is good practice to saw one more time through the seam before soldering.  This makes for a good fitting seam.

Cutting through the seam will line up both sides.  When you close the tubing, the seam should be tight and ready for soldering.

Step 17 - Solder the Tube

Using 1700 platinum solder, solder the tube closed.  Platinum solder doesn’t flow through a seam as easily as gold or silver solder.  So use several small pieces of solder placed along the seam.

Do not use flux to attach solder to any platinum surface.  As you heat the platinum to melt the solder, the flux is absorbed by the platinum and will become a contaminant.  If you must use anything to stick solder in place, use saliva.

Once it is soldered, you will need to round it.  Use a tube mandrel, a metal rod, or even the shaft of a bur which fits tightly inside the tube.  Use a hammer to round the tube evenly and symmetrically.

File the tube and polish it using the same steps as polishing the ring shank.

If you do several rings, you may purchase seamless tubing, or make a piece of tubing using a draw plate.

Check back later, we'll attache the tube to the ring shank next.

Jurgen

Cleanliness Is Next To Godliness

When working with platinum cleanliness is not only next to Godliness, it is an essential work habit.  Because of the high temperatures involved in soldering, other metals can easily contaminate platinum.  Platinum can also become contaminated from other metals on your files, saw blades, emery paper, and buff wheels.  To properly work on platinum you MUST have a clean work area and have separate tools reserved for platinum use only.

Brad