Platinum Guru

Making a Forged Platinum Ring - Part 4

Step 8 - Shaping the Ring with a File

Using a #4 barrette file, we file the ring and remove any marks the hammer or the pliers left on the ring.  Using an abrasive wheel, smooth the inside of the ring.  Before we move to sand paper, we stamp the quality mark and trade mark on the inside.  The mark reads Pt900 for 90/10 Iridium Platinum.

Be sure to cross file the ring.  Cross-filing is done by filing in directions 90 degrees from one another, similar to a Florentine.  This will prevent deep grooved in the ring which will have to be removed.

I find that a sponge file from a Beauty Saloon works great for Platinum.  It conforms to the shape of the ring and is disposable.

Step 9 - Sanding the Ring

With a sand paper stick we continue to smooth the ring, until it has a 600 sand paper finish.  We are using 3M Tri-Mite sand paper for this job.  This paper is especially designed for platinum.  It gives the surface a smooth and fine finish.  Another advantage is the fact, that during sanding, very few particles from the paper end up in your tray.  This will make the re-use of filing more successful.

You can get an even finer finish than 600 by using the 3M Wet & Dry papers for surface preparation.  Remember, at this point ALL scratches have to be removed.  This cannot be done through polishing, but needs to be done at the bench.

Polishing the ring shank comes next.

Jurgen

Making a Forged Platinum Ring - Part 3

Step 4 - Bend & Shape the Shank

Using bow-closing pliers, we bend the stock round.  This will mar the surface of the platinum somewhat, but the marks can be easily removed with the file.

It is helpful to modify the pliers by rounding the edges of the pliers with a Cratex wheel or a file.  This will prevent deep marks on the stock as you bend.

On some projects I actually place a small piece of leather or tape between the jaws as I bend the stock to prevent marring.

After the bending you will need to anneal the stock again.

Step 5 - Rounding the Ring Shank

The stock is then placed on a mandrel and hammered round.

At this point you will start thinking about the finger size and either remove metal or hammer it up a bit.

A good guide is to make a sterling model, before you work with platinum.  The model should be in three phases for each forged design

- One would be stock with the ends and the center forged,

- The next should be the bend and hammered ring as you see it in this picture

- And the third should be the finished ring made of sterling.

 

Step 6 - Trimming the Excess Material

Using a jeweler’s saw, trim off some of the excess platinum.  The ring is starting to take shape.

 

 

Step 7 - The Forged Ring

Here we see what the forged ring should look like at this point.  The finger size should be set, and the ring is ready for filing, sanding and finishing.

We'll continue creating the shank next time.

 

Jurgen