Platinum Guru

Welding Google Lens Plate

The biggest difference for the bench jeweler working with platinum is soldering.  Because of the high temperatures, welding goggles MUST be worn to protect your eyes.  However, because they are so dark it makes seeing and finding items difficult while soldering.

As an alternative, I devised a clip to attach a welding goggle lens plate to my torch body.  The clip is made from a heavy paper clip.  It holds the lens plate above the torch tip, right where needed when soldering or fusing.  Then while working, I can easily see around my bench, and my eyes have adequate protection where needed.

Many jewelers accomplish this by placing a lens plate in a third hand.  They can then position it where needed.  This works fine, but I like my clip better as it moves with my torch and is in the correct position every time I solder.

Brad

Fabricating a Platinum Ring - Part 2

Step 01

Begin by stamping the Pt stock with the quality mark and the makers mark.  This is important if the ring is sold across state lines.

 

Step 02

Using a ring mandrel, the shank is bent to the desired shape.  The marker line is at the actual size, so that the bend needs to be done only once.  This ring will have a square type shape and is not round.

 

Step 03

Here the approximate shape is shown.

Fabricating a Platinum Ring - Part 1

This series of photos shows the Step by Step process of making this beautiful platinum ring.  The entire ring is handmade from Pt950/Ru.

 

Materials needed:

Pt950/Ru strip, 2x6x60mm

Pt950 Ru strip, 2x4x15mm

Pt950 round wire, 1x10mm

Pt950 plump hard solder

Pt925 med plump solder

18-0.02ct round diamonds

1-1ct center diamond

 

Jurgen

MJSA Expo New York

MJSA’s annual Expo will be held in New York April 10-15, 2008 at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center.

MJSA Expo New York is the largest and oldest trade show in the United States dedicated to the design and manufacturing of jewelry.  The show features nearly 400 exhibits of some of the latest and most innovative tools, supplies, machinery, components, services, and finished products all under one roof.

MJSA Expo New York also features a full roster of educational seminars by some of the industry’s most renowned experts, and a cocktail party where our exhibitors and attendees can network with colleagues from all around the world.

For more information and to register log onto: http://www.mjsatradeshows.org/expoNY.php

Making a Forged Platinum Ring - Part 8

Step 22 - Creating the Seat for the Stone

Using a stone setting bur, cut the seat for the diamond.

I prefer a stone setting bur the exact stone size or slightly smaller.  You can use the bur as a gauge, if you mark the approximate depth you want to cut on the bur with a permanent marker.  As the burr turns, the mark will become a line.  All you need to do is cut to that line and you have reached the perfect depth.

Step 23 - Setting the Stone

Push the bezel around the stone using a bezel pusher or stone setting punch.  I usually tighten the stone by pushing at opposing sides in four places.

Then I push the metal toward the stone all the way around.  I prefer to use a setting punch for this portion.  Even blows on top of the setting punch with my chasing hammer create an even rim around the stone.

You may also use a reciprocating hammer for this step.

Step 24 - Removing Setting Marks from the Bezel

Using a silicon wheel, remove any marks left on the bezel by the setting process.  Sometimes you may need to use a small needle file before the wheel to even out any irregularities.

 

 

Step 25 - Bright-Cutting the Bezel

Using a #41 flat bottom graver with a highly polished bottom, finish the ring by cutting a bright cut around the bezel.

On larger stones, I actually cut the bright rim before I set the stone.  Then, after setting I cut around the bezel again, but because of the earlier cut, I will not need to cut near the stone. This keeps the graver from bouncing and gives the setting a better finish.

 

Step 26 - A very Attractive Ring         

After a final polish, followed by cleaning in the ultrasonic and steaming, we have the finished ring.

The customer certainly enjoys the ring.  I hope you have enjoyed and learned from this project.

Jurgen

Making a Forged Platinum Ring - Part 7

Step 18 - Placing 1500 Solder on the Ring

Next “tin” the edge of the ring with 1500 platinum solder.  This will make it possible to attach the tube to the ring without spilling solder onto the tube.  As the tube is highly polished, we want to do a very clean job.

 

 

Step 19 - Soldering the Tube in Place

Clamp the tube in place using tweezers with tungsten tips.  Do not use steel tweezers as they will contaminate the platinum.  Heat until the previously applied solder flows through the seam.

 

 

Step 20 - Cutting off Excess Tubing

Using a jeweler’s saw, trim the bezel to an attractive proportion in relationship to the ring. 

If you are a precise worker, you may cut the tube to the exact size before attaching.  However, I find it to be easier to trim it now after it is soldered.

 

Step 21 - Polishing the Seam

After removal of excess tubing on the inside of the ring, polish the area using a felt wheel and platinum polishing compound.  Also polish along the seam, bringing the ring to a show-room finish at this time.

We're almost finished, next time we'll set the stone.

Jurgen

Platinum Fabrication

Now playing on the Bench Jewelers Television Network.

www.BenchTelevision.com

Watch over his shoulder as Brad Simon shows you how he creates jewelry from platinum stock.  Platinum fabrication takes precise craftsmanship to make the jewelry evenly portioned, straight and symmetrical.  There's no room for mistakes, it must be measured and executed accurately.  This television series will reveal how to Master the Techniques needed.  From simple looking pieces of jewelry to complex projects it’s all here.  Traditional soldering techniques as well as utilizing new Fusion Welding techniques using the PUK Welder will be demonstrated.  Throughout the series your fabrication skills will be stretched as advanced fabrication procedures are demonstrated.

The Bench Jewelers Television Network is a full television network with different channels of interest to Bench Jewelers and is aired over the Internet.  Channels include, Shop Management, Stone Setting, Jewelry Repair, Custom Manufacturing, Laser Welding, Bench Techniques, New Products, and more.  Each channel has different shows of related topics.

www.BenchTelevision.com

Making a Forged Platinum Ring - Part 6

Step 14 - Making the Tube for the Bezel

Using needle nose pliers, we create the little tubing which will create the bezel for the stone.  We bend the platinum stock so that the inside diameter is just barely smaller than the stones girdle outline.  You can calculate the required stock you need by multiplying the stone’s diameter plus metal thickness, times 3.14.

Step 15 - Checking the Size of the Tube before Soldering

Before you cut the bezel tubing, be sure the stone will fit when it is done.  You can get a pretty good feel by looking at is as we did in the picture.  Now use a jeweler’s saw and cut away the excess metal.

Step 16 - Cut through the Seam before Soldering

It is good practice to saw one more time through the seam before soldering.  This makes for a good fitting seam.

Cutting through the seam will line up both sides.  When you close the tubing, the seam should be tight and ready for soldering.

Step 17 - Solder the Tube

Using 1700 platinum solder, solder the tube closed.  Platinum solder doesn’t flow through a seam as easily as gold or silver solder.  So use several small pieces of solder placed along the seam.

Do not use flux to attach solder to any platinum surface.  As you heat the platinum to melt the solder, the flux is absorbed by the platinum and will become a contaminant.  If you must use anything to stick solder in place, use saliva.

Once it is soldered, you will need to round it.  Use a tube mandrel, a metal rod, or even the shaft of a bur which fits tightly inside the tube.  Use a hammer to round the tube evenly and symmetrically.

File the tube and polish it using the same steps as polishing the ring shank.

If you do several rings, you may purchase seamless tubing, or make a piece of tubing using a draw plate.

Check back later, we'll attache the tube to the ring shank next.

Jurgen

Making a Forged Platinum Ring - Part 5

Step 10 - Pre-polishing the Inside of the Ring

Using abrasive silicon wheels with a flexible shaft, remove scratches from the inside of the ring.

There are some great little wheels available from 3M as well as from the Dental Industry.  At this point we are almost at a gloss finish on the inside.  Be sure not to remove quality stamps during this stage.

Step 11 - Polishing Inside of the Ring

At this point it is time to begin the polishing sequence.  First polish the inside of the ring shank on an inside felt buff.

Be sure to use Platinum compounds for polishing.  I use a Grey 800 for the pre-polish, then go to a White 1500, and proceed to a White 4000.  Be sure to wash the ring as well as your hands between steps and use separate wheels for separate steps.

 

Step 12 - Polishing the Ring on a Hard Felt Wheel

Next lap the sides of the ring on a hard felt wheel.

 

 

Step 13 - Apply the Final Luster

The final luster is obtained on a loose muslin buff with an Orange 8000 compound.  Buff it to a showroom luster, clean in the ultrasonic and set it aside. 

Next Time we'll create the tube for the diamond.

Jurgen

The Platinum Expert

Now playing on the Bench Jewelers Television Network

Hosted by Jurgen Maerz technical director of Platinum Guild International, featuring Jurgen Maerz and other Master Jewelers. The Platinum Expert television series is offered free of charge by Platinum Guild International and is featured on the Network Affiliates Channel on the Bench Jewelers Television Network.

Current Episode: Making A Three Stone Ring
This advanced project features Jeff Mathews.

Log onto: www.BenchTelevision.com to watch this and other great shows filmed especially for Bench Jewelers.

The Bench Jewelers Television Network is a full television network with different channels of interest to Bench Jewelers and is aired over the Internet. Channels include, Shop Management, Stone Setting, Jewelry Repair, Custom Manufacturing, Laser Welding, Bench Techniques, New Products, and more. Each channel has different shows of related topics.

www.BenchTelevision.com