Platinum Guru

Making Platinum Jewelry

Bench jewelers who have the skill to fabricate jewellery will have no trouble applying that skill to working with platinum. Platinum is a pleasure to behold, but can be very unforgiving, if one does not take the time to learn its properties.

Platinum is the most precious of all precious metals because of its high purity, rarity and other characteristics. Inert to most acids and oxides, and hypoallergenic, it is the ideal metal for jewellery. Platinum is here to stay and it is a very good decision to join the platinum wave. Remember, platinum is not difficult - it is different.

  ~Jurgen

For all your Platinum Findings go to: Southeastern Findings

Platinum Finishing

The finishing of platinum jewellery requires some preparation. It takes several additional steps to finish platinum compared with gold or silver. When platinum is used in conjunction with gold or other metals, the platinum must be polished first, as otherwise the other metals will be over polished. The best way to polish platinum is to use the compounds that are made for this purpose. Go from a coarse grit to an ever finer polish, until all scratches are invisible and the piece is ready for the final buffing. This extra effort is well worth the result. Platinum can be polished to a very high lustre, which will last for a very long time, but also lends itself to many types of surface finishes.

  ~Jurgen

For all your Platinum Findings go to: Southeastern Findings

Manufacturing Methods - Stonesetting

Platinum is considered a 'dead metal', which means it holds the shape, or position it is placed in, without springiness. This is of great advantage for prong setting. Once pushed in place, the prongs will securely hold stones in place. Like all metals platinum will scratch during wear, but there is no metal loss when scratching occurs. Therefore engravings will not fade, and prongs and shanks will last for generations.

  ~Jurgen

For articles on Making Platinum Jewelry go to: http://PlatinumGuru.com

Manufacturing Methods - Die Striking

Die striking is used to make anything from findings to light weight earrings and more. Platinum iridium alloys are very suitable for this. Platinum’s density means a much thinner sheet of metal can be used and still be as strong as the heavier gauge necessary to do the same piece in gold.

  ~Jurgen

For all your Platinum Findings go to: Southeastern Findings

Manufacturing Methods - Casting

Casting can be done with several alloy combinations, of which platinum/cobalt (Pt/Co) and platinum/iridium (Pt/Ir) are the most common. In the Pt/Co alloy, the cobalt acts as a grain refiner and gives this alloy the ability to fill very fine detail. Casting employs the lost wax process and can be accomplished with either the torch or an induction machine. Other alloy combinations can also be cast.

The extremely high melting point of platinum makes it possible to do bi-metal casting, where another metal is cast onto a finished platinum piece, thus creating colour contrast.

When casting platinum with a torch, hydrogen/oxygen is the preferred fuel combination for the melt. Acetylene is not useful for melting platinum as it expels carbon in the flame and carbon will contaminate the metal through absorption. While it is very hot and melts the metal rapidly, platinum will become brittle if acetylene is being used. Propane/oxygen can be employed successfully. It is also important to get the proper torch for this job.

Due to the characteristics of platinum, the high temperatures and the variety of applications, there is a substantial learning curve to become successful with induction casting platinum. It is recommended that small manufacturers send casting-to-casting houses.

Modern laser equipment has proven to be very helpful in removing defects such as excess porosity on a platinum casting. It also allows the repairing or welding close to stones, without causing damage to them. With a laser welder, repairs on vintage jewellery can be performed that are not possible with conventional methods.

  ~Jurgen

Learn more about working on Platinum Jewelry
at the Bench Jewelers Conference
April 23 - 25  ~  St. Louis, MO

Manufacturing Methods - Fabrication

Many wedding bands are fabricated by machining platinum from tubing. The recommended alloy for this manufacturing method in the US is platinum/ruthenium (Pt/Ru), a hard and flexible alloy. Ruthenium is another platinum group metal. Made into platinum tubing, this alloy is usually cut in “Swiss machines” or on a lathe, using diamond-cutting tools, to make wedding bands of many design variations. Tubing can be made several ways, ranging from extruding to pressing from a washer like disc. Most tubing is seamless. The wedding bands are then sliced off the tube and are shaped and cut to create the various designs.

Fabricating platinum jewelry has many benefits. The high melting temperature of the metal will make working with the finest wires possible. Its unparalleled strength makes platinum the ideal metal to securely hold stones in mountings, and the lustre that can be achieved by properly polishing platinum is second to none.

  ~Jurgen

Learn more about working on Platinum Jewelry
at the Bench Jewelers Conference
April 23 - 25  ~  St. Louis, MO

Alloying Platinum

Before platinum can be used in jewelry making, it has to be alloyed to create the metal most suitable for a specific application. Platinum can be alloyed with a multitude of metals to create a harder, more usable alloy. Platinum alloys range in purity from Pt 950 to Pt 900 and Pt 850. Pt950 contains 950 parts per 1000 of platinum and 50 parts per 1000 of another metal. Pt900 contains 900 parts per 1000 and 100 parts of one or more other metals. Pt 850 is not very common and is usually found in chain product.

Alloying platinum with different metals creates a variety of properties that make platinum extremely versatile. Adding five per cent ruthenium creates an alloy suitable for machining and faceting on a lathe. Many wedding bands are made this way. A five per cent addition of cobalt to platinum creates a very fine casting alloy. This alloy is hard and strong, yet very fluid and capable of filling very fine detail during the casting process. Adding tungsten will create a springy alloy that is generally used for findings. There are many more specialty alloys on the market, not to mention proprietary alloys that manufacturers create to make jewellery such as tension rings.

  ~Jurgen

For articles on Making Platinum Jewelry go to: http://PlatinumGuru.com

Platinum Seminars

The 2009 Bench Jewelers Conference is offering the following seminars on Platinum.  For a complete list of seminars and registration details go to: www.BenchConference.com

This may be the most Important Event you attend in 2009.

Working with Platinum
Jurgen Maerz

Thursday session 1, Friday session 2

Revolutionize your platinum techniques and expand your design capabilities by learning platinum’s unique properties to create jewelry.  In this multi-media presentation, you will see how platinum is mined and learn a variety of advanced platinum bench techniques.  Learn how to avoid problems in creating and repairing platinum jewelry by understanding the advantages of different platinum alloys from the industries foremost platinum jewelry expert.  You’ll learn all about the processes involved in taking platinum from the ground to your customer’s finger, along with many tips and tricks to working with platinum.  

 

Platinum Casting
Jurgen Maerz

Friday session 1, Saturday session 3

Today, platinum casting for the small shop is easier than ever - as long as you are sufficiently prepared.  Platinum casting is different from gold or silver casting, and insufficient preparation and understanding of the process can still lead to many hours of frustration.  Success depends on having good, functional equipment and learning all you can about the process.  Acclaimed platinumsmith Jurgen Maerz will emphasize ways to improve your casting process and discuss how to recognize and eliminate common mistakes and improve efficiency in both time and materials.

Step by Step Fabrication
Jurgen Maerz 

Thursday session 3, Saturday session 1

In this seminar, German Trained Master Jeweler Jurgen Maerz will provide step-by-step instruction on a variety fabrication projects.  Learn cutting-edge techniques and insights for fabricating and creating jewelry.  From simply designs to truly unique  jewelry, this seminar will go beyond the basics and demonstrate hand-fabricating techniques that will stretch your creativity. 

Favorite Tips – Jewelry Repairs
Jurgen Maerz & Brad Simon
Saturday session 4

Working at the Bench encompasses only a few basic techniques.  However, there are numerous tricks to use in mastering those techniques.  This seminar is full of innovative tips, tricks, shortcuts, and homemade tools to help jewelers work smarter, by being more efficient and economical.  You will learn tips, tricks, and techniques from Master Jewelers Jurgen Maerz & Brad Simon on Jewelry Repair.  Plus bring along your own tips to share.

For a complete list of seminars and registration details go to: www.BenchConference.com

Platinum is NOT Difficult

Technical education is the key successfully manufacturing platinum jewellery. Platinum is often regarded as a difficult metal to work with, however once you understand the capabilities as well as the limitations of this metal you will find working with it a pleasure.

Platinum is not more difficult to work with than any other precious metal, but it is very different.  This difference created a need for education on all levels, from designer to end-user. The Platinum Guild International (PGI), with six offices worldwide, is educating as many jewellers and consumers as possible about platinum. Through sales training and technical training as well as articles in trade publications, the word is spreading: platinum is here to stay, let’s join the platinum wave.

It is possible to make things out of platinum that would be impossible to even attempt in anything else. What you need is an understanding of platinum’s metal properties, its malleability and ductility and behaviour when heat is applied. Add to this your skill as a craftsman and you should have no problems at all.

  ~Jurgen

Learn more about working on Platinum Jewelry
at the Bench Jewelers Conference
April 23 - 25  ~  St. Louis, MO

Devesting

Removing the castings from the investment can be a challenge.  The investment, which is baked at very high temperatures, turns into a glass-like substance that can be difficult to separate from the cast pieces.

 

Most manufacturers use hydrofluoric acid, which is extremely dangerous and must be handled with utmost caution.  Always use rubber gloves, a rubber apron, and a respirator that filters small particles from the air.

 

A small shop may wish to consider a safer devesting agent for platinum investment as a substitute for hydrofluoric acid.  Ask your tool supplier; there are many brand names. You can also mix your own substitute using the following formula (percentages are given by weight): 25 percent sodium hydroxide, 25 percent potassium hydroxide, and 50 percent deionized or distilled water.  (The sodium hydroxide and the potassium hydroxide should be in pearl or flake form.)  Combine all three solutions in a stainless steel container, and heat (do not boil) for 25 to 40 minutes.  Be careful mixing, since the three ingredients will naturally heat up when combined.

 

  ~Jurgen