Polishing Your Act
Many jewelers see polishing as a mundane task. However, it is one of the most important operations in the process of repairing or making jewelry. The final appearance of the jewelry, to large extent, will determine the acceptability of the work by the customer. Although a good polish cannot cover-up poor workmanship, a poor polish will make even the most expert workmanship look sloppy.
Buffing and polishing are the two procedures to produce the final high luster on jewelry. Although often used interchangeably these are two separate operations.
Buffing is an abrasive process where a small amount of the surface is removed. Tripoli is the most commonly used compound for buffing. It will remove minor scratches left from sanding and smooth out all surfaces. However, it will not bright polish.
The final high luster is achieved by polishing. Polishing uses harder compounds such as rouge. Varieties of rouges are available for different uses and are distinguished by their color. Yellow rouge is fast becoming the preferred rouge for gold, as it is less messy than the traditional red rouge. With rouge, there is almost no cutting action; it burnishes the metal, moving the surface layer around to smooth the fine scratches left from buffing.
NEVER mix the rouge and tripoli buffs. You can easily contaminate the rouge buff. Once contaminated with even a slight amount of tripoli, the rouge buff will not produce its normal mirror finish. Always wipe or wash off the jewelry and your hands after using the tripoli buff. It is possible to "carry over" tripoli on the jewelry to the rouge buff.
A discussion of the polishing motor should begin with a warning to respect its capability for inflicting serious personal injury, as well as damage to the article of jewelry. Because the buff wheels are so soft, it is hard to imagine that they can do any damage. This misconception can lead to problems unless you follow certain procedures.
Probably more fingers have been broken or cut off, as well as other serious injuries, while polishing than in all other jewelry related procedures combined. The spinning buffs have a tendency to snatch at anything they encounter. The down draft created by the blower may pull loose clothing or hair into the wheel. The following procedures will help you produce a professional looking finish and minimize the risk of personal injury.
Always work just below the center of the buff wheel. Never raise the jewelry above a horizontal line even with the motor spindle, or lower it too far below. Both of these situations will cause the wheel to grab the item from your hand.
Press your work firmly against the wheel so that you feel the cutting action. However, never press so hard that the motor slows down. Excessive pressure will not give a better polish or polish faster. Light pressure is also ineffective. A firm even pressure throughout the operation is preferred.
Do not use too much tripoli or rouge on the wheels. It is not necessary to apply more compounds each time the buff is used. Apply the compounds when the results indicate it is necessary.
Move the jewelry constantly. Holding it for too long in one position may cut undesirable grooves in the metal. The excessive cutting may also remove details and change the shape. Press the jewelry against the wheel, then move it downward, sideways, roll, rotate, and position it so that the wheel reaches all possible areas of the metal. Then all areas will receive uniform polish, and the cross buffing will result in a higher shine.
Buff solder joints across the joint rather than with it. Solder is softer than the surrounding metal. If you buff with the joint, the solder will polish away quicker, leaving a groove in the metal.
Always hold the jewelry in a breakaway grip. Never interlock your fingers into the piece. Never put a ring on your finger to polish.
Always roll up or button your sleeves, and wear an apron or smock to keep loose clothing away from the wheels.
Never take the wheel for granted. Always keep your mind on what you are doing while polishing. If interrupted, stop polishing and turn the machine off. Then come back when you can concentrate on polishing.
Never leave the machine running when you are not in front of it; not even for a few seconds.
A more intricate, controlled polish may be prepared using the flexible shaft. An analogy can be made to mowing lawns. The polishing machine is to polishing what a lawnmower is to cutting grass and the flex-shaft is comparable to a trimmer. You can mow your lawn with a lawnmower with out using a trimmer, but the edges of the lawn are left ragged. You could also mow the entire lawn with just the trimmer. However, the results would be uneven and choppy, not to mention it would take a very long time. For a professionally looking lawn, you need to use both the lawnmower and trimmer.
For a professional looking finish, you need to start with the flex-shaft. Its small wheels and brushes will allow you to polish prongs and other delicate areas without damage, and reach areas inaccessible with the larger wheels. Then buffing and polishing on the larger polishing machine will result in a smooth even high luster, the work of a true jewelry professional.
Brad