When using a jeweler’s saw, ALWAYS saw on the waste side of the line. Cut as close to the line as possible without cutting into it. It is always better to leave too much metal, which can be removed latter, than to cut away too much metal. With experience, you will be able to cut right along the line with no additional clean up needed when finished.
Brad
Always mount hand files into handles. Handles offer far more control and safety than just holding onto the un-mounted tang of a file. Needle files have a smooth round tang that doubles as a handle. However, they can be awkward to hold for more than brief periods. It is helpful to fit the file into a larger and more comfortable handle.
Brad
When using a rolling mill to change the dimensions of gold, silver, or platinum sheets always place the metal being rolled in the center of the rollers. This will ensure even pressure on the metal and cause less wear on the rolling mill.
Brad
To begin cutting with a jeweler’s saw, place the metal on the bench pin. Hold it firmly; if the metal slips the blade will break. Rest the saw blade against its edge; gently draw the blade downward. The blade should begin to cut. If it doesn’t check the blade. It 
maybe the wrong size for the metal being cut, or it maybe installed upside down. The teeth should point down towards the handle, cutting on the down stroke. If the teeth point upwards, remove the blade and turn it around.
Saw in front of your body and in a forward direction. Some jewelers keep the saw in one forward position and move the metal into the saw. Others hold the metal steady, and move the saw in the desired direction. Still others move both the metal and saw as necessary. With a little practice, you will develop the most natural method for you.
Sawing is most efficient when remaining relaxed while sawing. Tensing muscles in the hand, arm or shoulders cause fatigue and cramping. In addition, un-satisfactory sawing will result. The arm and shoulder should be loose and the hand remaining relaxed. If necessary, adjust your chair or body position in order to be comfortable and relaxed while sawing.
Brad
Do you have questions about CAD-CAM, Fabrication, Casting or have tips you’re willing to share? This round table discussion is all about Custom Jewelry Manufacturing. Find solutions to your jewelry manufacturing problems and learn new tips. Discuss with your pears how you have made Custom Jewelry Manufacturing easier and more profitable.
In this un-moderated discussion attendees will have the opportunity to speak their minds in an energetic discussion of pressing topics affecting bench jewelers today. Bring your opinions, your notepads, and your throat lozenges!
This seminar is part of the program at the Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo, April 24 – 27, 2008 in Los Angeles. For details on all the seminars offered, more conference & expo information, and to register go to: www.BenchConference.com.
Brad
When soldering platinum to gold always use cadmium free gold solder. For health reasons, this is the only solder you should be using anyway. However, for platinum it is especially important. Cadmium can migrate into the grain structure and cause brittleness.
Before joining platinum and gold together ALWAYS finish and polish the platinum piece. Platinum requires a longer polishing time than gold. If they are polished after joining the gold would wear away before a final polish could be applied to the platinum. As platinum does not oxidize when heated, the polished finish will remain after soldering.
Platinum and gold contract while cooling at different rates. Because of this, if you have a long solder seam between gold and platinum the seam may crack as it cools. To minimize this try to design your jewelry creations with a short seam where the gold and platinum touch. If a long seam cannot be avoided, after soldering cover the piece to allow it to cool slower. A used tuna fish can make an ideal cover. After soldering place the can over the item you soldered and warm with your torch, then allow to air cool slowly.
Brad
Learn cutting-edge techniques and insights for fabricating intricate platinum jewelry. Acclaimed platinumsmith Jurgen Maerz will provide instruction on a variety of platinum fabrication procedures using a torch to do traditional soldering and welding and innovative new techniques using a Laser Welder. Revolutionize your platinum techniques and expand your design capabilities by learning platinum’s unique properties to create jewelry.
This seminar sponsored by Platinum Guild International, is part of the program at the Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo, April 24 – 27, 2008 in Los Angeles. For details on all the seminars offered, more conference & expo information, and to register go to: www.BenchConference.com.
Brad
Because the file is such a simple looking tool, most people are fooled into thinking that there is no right way to use it. However, this is not true. Proper filing is essential in jewelry work. An efficient stroke of the file is a very important operation that is often neglected by beginners. Filing incorrectly wastes time and causes unnecessary work. Careless filing waste precious metals, the jeweler should always strive to conserve the maximum amount of metal. Proper filing to a large extent, determines whether the finished jewelry will look professional or amateurish.
In all filing, keep the hand and forearm in one straight line. From this position roll the wrist from side to side for rounded surfaces. Do Not bend the hand down at an angle to the forearm. Putting pressure on the wrist in this bent position over time will develop corporal tunnel syndrome. Whenever exerting forward pressure on the hand, keep the wrist straight as possible.
All files are designed to cut on the forward or push stroke. The backward or pull stroke does no cutting, it only returns the file to the start position, ready for the next cutting stroke. An efficient file stroke is smooth, steady, and even, using the full length of the file. Use just enough pressure to keep the file cutting during the entire stroke. Many jewelers develop the habit of lifting the file from the metal surface for the return stroke. Others leave the file in contact, but allow it to lightly slide back to the tip. Pressure is then again applied on the cutting stroke. As with all techniques, each jeweler gradually develops an individual way of filing. Regardless of how one eventually develops the filing stroke, the important thing to realize is that the tool is designed to cut only on the forward movement.
When working in areas of critical fit or precise edges, it is wise to lift the file on the back stroke and take careful, deliberate cutting strokes. This technique permits constant visual evaluation as the desired surface or shape develops.
Hold the work steady and move only the file, paying attention to the angle of which you are holding the file. Work with steady, even, long strokes. Frantic aggressive filing or short, broken, "fiddley” strokes will produce in-accurate results.
Brad
When fabricating a piece of jewelry for pearls, used an old screw post earring post for the pearl stud. The threads will serve as notches to help hold the epoxy and pearl.
Brad
Attach a sponge lightly saturated with oil to your rolling mill. Place one sponge above the top roller and one sponge below the bottom roller. As you use the rolling mill, the sponges will keep the rollers clean and the oil will keep them from rusting.
Before you use it, turn the rollers on complete turn to clean any dust or debris that has accumulated on the rollers. You can keep the sponges in place with binding wire. Just make sure you keep everything away from the gears.
Brad
