Jewelry Making with Brad Simon

Pearl Post

When fabricating a piece of jewelry for pearls, used an old screw post earring post for the pearl stud.  The threads will serve as notches to help hold the epoxy and pearl.

Brad

Maintaining Rolling Mill

Attach a sponge lightly saturated with oil to your rolling mill.  Place one sponge above the top roller and one sponge below the bottom roller.  As you use the rolling mill, the sponges will keep the rollers clean and the oil will keep them from rusting. 

Before you use it, turn the rollers on complete turn to clean any dust or debris that has accumulated on the rollers.  You can keep the sponges in place with binding wire.  Just make sure you keep everything away from the gears.

 

Brad

 

Jewelry Making: Rubber Mold Making

Rubber Mold Making- Clear silicone RTV

with Vic Joyner

Friday April 25th & Saturday April 26th

This seminar will demonstrate the construction of clear silicone rubber molds from a variety of pattern materials, including metal models, hand carved waxes, RP patterns and CNC milled patterns.  And then use those molds to create new duplicate models with the new HD material – a technological breakthrough that replaces injection wax.  You’ll learn tips and tricks to making and cutting rubber molds, as well as solving the problems of incomplete injections, breakage, shrinkage, and irregular surfaces in your patterns.

This seminar is part of the program at the Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo, April 24 – 27, 2008 in Los Angeles.  For details on all the seminars offered, more conference & expo information, and to register go to: www.BenchConference.com.

Brad

The Master's Touch

The difference between a Master Jeweler and an average jeweler is not so much learning advanced techniques as a mastery over the basic ones.  For example, there is little difference between the soldering technique in the most complex hand fabricated item of jewelry and sizing a ring.  What sets the Masters work apart is the meticulous execution of those techniques.

The downfall of many bench jewelers is not a lack of skills but the determination and discipline to practice and fine-tune those skills to the degree of workmanship deserving the title of Master.  Often what hinders our progress is not a lack of knowledge, but the apathy towards accomplishing our work that we have allowed to creep in.  Over the years, it is easy to allow bad habits to develop like hurrying through our work or skipping certain steps.  To overcome this takes practice.  Just like a sports player will practice before performing on the playing field, or a musician will practice before performing on the stage, you need to continually practice before performing at the bench.

When was the last time that you did an actual practice exercise where you worked on a certain project just to develop a skill, and after critically examining the results to find areas that need improvement, practiced more to improve them.  (It is not practice that makes perfect, but perfect practice that makes perfect.)

Why not commit a little time each week, just to the development of your skills?  Why not get back to the basics and practice those fundamental techniques that seem so simple and easy like those basic procedures that take only a few days to learn, but a lifetime to master.  Remember, it is not the techniques that set the master apart but the meticulous execution of those techniques.

This is not to say knowledge and understanding of skills is unimportant.  It is just that often all we seek is new knowledge to overcome a problem when what is needed at the bench is development of the knowledge we already have.

Certainly, learning a helpful tip or a new trick can help anyone perform better work.  However, unless and until the basic techniques are practiced and mastered, can these new applications be performed with the perfection deserving the Master Craftsman title?  To accomplish this, spend less time trying to learn new tricks and spend more time mastering basic skills.

Strive to accomplish the work of a master.  This is a worthy goal of any jeweler regardless of where they are in the development of their career.  Practice each technique and develop every skill with the standard in mind that this is the work of a true master.  Even if this ultimate goal is never achieved, the striving for and the reaching toward it will create in you a better artisan. 

Brad

In A Pickle

When I began in the jewelry industry in the mid 70’s we used a mixture of sulfuric acid and water for our pickle.  This mixture is a fantastic pickle solution, however, if you splashed any on cloth, it would deteriorate the fibers of the cloth and any vigorous rubbing or washing of the cloth would produce holes in the fabric.  Towels, cloth aprons, and even your clothes were vulnerable to the pickle solution.

One night after we were first married, I came home from work to a dimly lit house with a candle lit romantic dinner on the table.  My wife greeted me saying that she knew this would not make up for it, but she hoped that I would forgive her because she had ruined my new work clothes.  She did not know what she did, but somehow while washing my clothes she caused a bunch of little holes all over them.

I enjoyed the evening, and waited until morning to explain the real reason for the holes.

I’ve since stopped using pickle in my shop all together.  Let’s face it.  For those of us who work mostly in gold and coat the jewelry with Boric Acid or some other fire coat, there is no oxidation on the jewelry from the soldering process (or at least there should not be any).  The only reason to pickle the jewelry is to remove the boric acid and other flux.  That is easily done in a detergent solution and we do not have to subject the jewelry to the harsh chemicals of Sparex or what ever pickle solution you use.

I keep a small container on my bench of water mixed with the same cleaning solution I use in my Ultrasonic cleaner, just mixed a little stronger.  When the jewelry has cooled after soldering, I place the jewelry in this container to remove the boric acid coating and fluxes.

Brad

Jewelry Making: Unique Jewelry Fabrication

Unique Jewelry Fabrication

with Brad Simon CMBJ

Thursday April 24th & Sunday April 27th

Hand fabricating a piece of jewelry is a mark of true craftsmanship.  In this seminar we will go beyond the basics and demonstrate hand fabricating techniques that will stretch your creativity.  Traditional techniques and new technology will be demonstrated together to create un-usual jewelry designs.  Many fabrication tips given throughout the presentation.

This seminar is part of the program at the Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo, April 24 – 27, 2008 in Los Angeles.  For details on all the seminars offered, more conference & expo information, and to register go to: www.BenchConference.com.

Brad

Jewelry Making: Waste Not Want Not

Waste Not Want Not

Tips for Scrap Material Management

Place a piece of leather or matte board in the bottom of your lap tray.  This will aid you in cleaning the sweeps out of your lap tray.  Pick up the leather by the corners and dump the sweeps into the container.  This also helps protect stones from the hard metal bottom of the lap tray when accidentally dropped.

Brad

Jewelry Making: Tips for Working with Wax

Tips for Working with Wax

To size a wax ring blank, heat an old ring mandrel with your torch or over an alcohol lamp.  Then slide the wax ring blank down the warm mandrel melting the wax until you reach your desired size.  Slide the ring blank off, flip it over and slide it back down the mandrel to size the other side.  Remove the blank carefully and wipe the excess wax off the mandrel with a paper towel or allow it to cool and peel the wax off.

Brad

Jewelry Making: Hand Carving Waxes

Hand Wax Carving

with Mark Grosser CMBJ

Session 1

Thursday April 24th & Friday April 25th

With all the emphasis on CAD-CAM is it still practical to carve waxes by hand?  In this demonstration you will learn all about Hand Carving Waxes.  From wax selection to proper tools and more will be discussed and demonstrated.  You’ll learn the fundamentals of layout and how to apply different finishes.  Plus, you’ll learn tips and tricks to making wax carving fast, efficient, and accurate.

Session 2

Saturday April 26th & Sunday April 27th

With all the emphasis on CAD-CAM is it still practical to carve waxes by hand?  In this demonstration you will learn all about hand carving waxes with particular emphasis on stone setting.  You will see demonstrated both channel and half bezel mountings carved and learn proper proportions to make your wax to ensure the stones will fit the mounting after the jewelry is cast. You’ll see first-hand wax carving techniques and tools that can save time and improve product quality.

These seminar are part of the program at the Bench Jewelers Conference & Expo, April 24 – 27, 2008 in Los Angeles.  For details on all the seminars offered, more conference & expo information, and to register go to: www.BenchConference.com.

Brad

Jewelry Making: Polishing Your Act

Polishing Your Act

Many jewelers see polishing as a mundane task.  However, it is one of the most important operations in the process of repairing or making jewelry.  The final appearance of the jewelry, to large extent, will determine the acceptability of the work by the customer.  Although a good polish cannot cover-up poor workmanship, a poor polish will make even the most expert workmanship look sloppy.

Buffing and polishing are the two procedures to produce the final high luster on jewelry.  Although often used interchangeably these are two separate operations.

Buffing is an abrasive process where a small amount of the surface is removed.  Tripoli is the most commonly used compound for buffing.  It will remove minor scratches left from sanding and smooth out all surfaces.  However, it will not bright polish.

The final high luster is achieved by polishing.  Polishing uses harder compounds such as rouge.  Varieties of rouges are available for different uses and are distinguished by their color.  Yellow rouge is fast becoming the preferred rouge for gold, as it is less messy than the traditional red rouge.  With rouge, there is almost no cutting action; it burnishes the metal, moving the surface layer around to smooth the fine scratches left from buffing.

NEVER mix the rouge and tripoli buffs.  You can easily contaminate the rouge buff.  Once contaminated with even a slight amount of tripoli, the rouge buff will not produce its normal mirror finish.  Always wipe or wash off the jewelry and your hands after using the tripoli buff.  It is possible to "carry over" tripoli on the jewelry to the rouge buff.

A discussion of the polishing motor should begin with a warning to respect its capability for inflicting serious personal injury, as well as damage to the article of jewelry.  Because the buff wheels are so soft, it is hard to imagine that they can do any damage.  This misconception can lead to problems unless you follow certain procedures.

Probably more fingers have been broken or cut off, as well as other serious injuries, while polishing than in all other jewelry related procedures combined.  The spinning buffs have a tendency to snatch at anything they encounter.  The down draft created by the blower may pull loose clothing or hair into the wheel.  The following procedures will help you produce a professional looking finish and minimize the risk of personal injury.

Always work just below the center of the buff wheel.  Never raise the jewelry above a horizontal line even with the motor spindle, or lower it too far below.  Both of these situations will cause the wheel to grab the item from your hand.

Press your work firmly against the wheel so that you feel the cutting action.  However, never press so hard that the motor slows down.  Excessive pressure will not give a better polish or polish faster.  Light pressure is also ineffective.  A firm even pressure throughout the operation is preferred.

Do not use too much tripoli or rouge on the wheels.  It is not necessary to apply more compounds each time the buff is used.  Apply the compounds when the results indicate it is necessary.

Move the jewelry constantly.  Holding it for too long in one position may cut undesirable grooves in the metal.  The excessive cutting may also remove details and change the shape.  Press the jewelry against the wheel, then move it downward, sideways, roll, rotate, and position it so that the wheel reaches all possible areas of the metal.  Then all areas will receive uniform polish, and the cross buffing will result in a higher shine.

Buff solder joints across the joint rather than with it.  Solder is softer than the surrounding metal.  If you buff with the joint, the solder will polish away quicker, leaving a groove in the metal.

Always hold the jewelry in a breakaway grip.  Never interlock your fingers into the piece.  Never put a ring on your finger to polish.

Always roll up or button your sleeves, and wear an apron or smock to keep loose clothing away from the wheels.

Never take the wheel for granted.  Always keep your mind on what you are doing while polishing.  If interrupted, stop polishing and turn the machine off.  Then come back when you can concentrate on polishing.

Never leave the machine running when you are not in front of it; not even for a few seconds.

A more intricate, controlled polish may be prepared using the flexible shaft.  An analogy can be made to mowing lawns.  The polishing machine is to polishing what a lawnmower is to cutting grass and the flex-shaft is comparable to a trimmer.  You can mow your lawn with a lawnmower with out using a trimmer, but the edges of the lawn are left ragged.  You could also mow the entire lawn with just the trimmer.  However, the results would be uneven and choppy, not to mention it would take a very long time.  For a professionally looking lawn, you need to use both the lawnmower and trimmer.

For a professional looking finish, you need to start with the flex-shaft.  Its small wheels and brushes will allow you to polish prongs and other delicate areas without damage, and reach areas inaccessible with the larger wheels.  Then buffing and polishing on the larger polishing machine will result in a smooth even high luster, the work of a true jewelry professional.

Brad