Jewelry Making with Brad Simon

Firecoat - Soldering Jewelry

Always coat the jewelry with boric acid by dipping it in a solution of boric acid and alcohol.  Then, burn off the alcohol leaving an even coating of powered boric acid over the jewelry.  When heated the boric acid will turn glassy, forming a barrier from oxygen in the air, keeping the jewelry from oxidation.  Boric acid also acts as a flux.  Often this is all the flux you will need to solder; however, sometimes additional flux will need to be added.

If enough flux is not used the metal will oxidize, and the solder will not be able to flow properly; however, you can use too much flux.  If too much flux is used the glassy coating of the flux will hold the solder away from the metal not allowing it to flow into the seam.  If this is a problem, use your solder pick to scrape away excess flux.  Then, continue your soldering. 

For articles on Jewelry Making go to: http://GuideToJewelryMaking.com
Bench Tips and Tricks for Bench Jewelers, and Goldsmiths

Using a Jewelers Saw

Saw with a slow steady up and down rhythm using the entire length of the blade.  This will allow you to saw faster and more accurately.  Short choppy strokes result in uneven sawing and will prematurely wear out that section of the blade, causing it to break.  On the downward stroke, a natural forward movement provides sufficient pressure on the blade.  Too little pressure allows the teeth to simply scrape the metal, which is ineffective.  An excess of forward or downward pressure will cause the blade to break.

Release the forward pressure on the upward return stroke.  It only repositions the blade for the next downward cutting stroke.  Dragging the teeth on the up stroke can cause the blade to misshape, and the teeth to wear unevenly.

For all your Jewelry Findings go to: Southeastern Findings

Bench Jewelers Buffing Machine

When using a buffing machine always hold the jewelry in a breakaway grip.  Never interlock your fingers into the piece.  NEVER PUT A RING ON YOUR FINGER TO POLISH.

Always roll up or button your sleeves, and wear an apron or smock to keep loose clothing away from the wheels.  In addition, tie long hair back so that it can not tangle up in the wheel.

Use a face shield on your dust collector or wear safety glasses.  The buffing room is no place for vanity, your eyesight is far more important.

Protect your lungs.  Always wear a respirator.  (The same applies to lungs as eyesight.)

Bench Television
How to training videos for Bench Jewelers
See some of the most respected Master Jewelers explain their techniques and tips
on stonesetting, making and repairing jewelry.

Jewelers Sawblades

To store sawblades unwrap the wire binding and place in the tube they were supplied in.  Holders can be made by cutting the tube 4 ½ inches long (blades are 5 ¼).  Attach the tubes to the inside of your bench above the lap tray or other convenient place.  With ¾ inch of the blade protruding from the tube, you can then easily retrieve them when needed.

Instead of the tubes, you can drill 3/8-inch holes in the front edge of your bench top.  Drill the holes off to the side out of the way of your workspace.  Several holes are needed one for each size of blade you use.  Drill holes on a slight downward angle, 4 ½ inches deep.

Place all blades in the holder with the teeth pointing out towards you.  Then, when you pull a blade out, it will be facing the correct direction to place in the saw frame.  Be certain to label the hole or tube with the blade size.

For all your Jewelry Findings go to: Southeastern Findings

Soldering Jewelry

Soldering is one of the most basic operations preformed by a bench jeweler.  Developing other skills is of little value without the ability to solder with confidence.  The only way to attain a level of proficiency is by gaining correct instruction, and continually practicing proper techniques.  With this in mind, the following tips are given for the apprentice to learn correctly, and the advanced or master jeweler to review and brush-up on existing skills.

For articles on Jewelry Making go to: http://GuideToJewelryMaking.com
Bench Tips and Tricks for Bench Jewelers, and Goldsmiths

Bench Jewelers Newsletter Special Offer

In 1999 Bench Media published ‘Run Your Shop Without It Running You’.  For the past 10 years it has been the Best Selling book on Jewelry Shop Management.  In celebration of the 10th anniversary of the book you can now read it online free when you sign-up for eBench Newsletter.  Go to http://www.eBenchNewsletter.com enter your email Address to Subscribe and you will be sent instructions to read the book.

Sawing

When sawing, release the forward pressure on the upward return stroke.  It only repositions the blade for the next downward cutting stroke.  Dragging the teeth on the up stroke can cause the blade to misshape, and the teeth to wear unevenly.

  ~Brad

http://www.MetalPlatingGuide.com
This book is about plating metal in general and not just jewelry specific.  However at 123 pages
in length, it contains all the information you ever wanted to know about plating metal.

Dust Collectors

Always use a dust collector on your polishing motor to keep the dust from blowing around the shop.  The money received from the refiner will pay for it in a short time.

  ~Brad

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Sawing Precious Metal

Saw with a slow steady up and down rhythm using the entire length of the blade.  This will allow you to saw faster and more accurately.  Short choppy strokes result in uneven sawing and will prematurely wear out that section of the blade, causing it to break.  On the downward stroke, a natural forward movement provides sufficient pressure on the blade.  Too little pressure allows the teeth to simply scrape the metal, which is ineffective.  An excess of forward or downward pressure will cause the blade to break.

  ~Brad

For all your Jewelry Findings go to: Southeastern Findings

Polishing Rings and Other Jewelry

When Polishing always hold the jewelry in a breakaway grip.  Never interlock your fingers into the piece.  NEVER PUT A RING ON YOUR FINGER TO POLISH.

Tie long hair back so that it cannot get tangle up in the buff wheels.  Always roll up or button your sleeves, and wear an apron or smock to keep loose clothing away from the wheels.  In addition, tie long hair back so that it can not tangle up in the wheel.

  ~Brad

http://www.MetalPlatingGuide.com
This book is about plating metal in general and not just jewelry specific.  However at 123 pages
in length, it contains all the information you ever wanted to know about plating metal.